Malaysia: the good, the bad and the durian

As Australia continues its nauseating debate around the processing of asylum seekers and the proposed ‘Malaysia solution‘ finally meets its fate (hoorah!), my family and I have recently returned from a lovely holiday to peninsula Malaysia.  We had a fantastic time, and after many years of nearly visiting the country but always deciding at the last minute to head to somewhere a bit more far-flung, can’t believe it took me so long to get there!

Old meets new - colonial shopfronts dwarfed by a modern building in Kuala Lumpur (photo: The Other)

Old meets new - colonial shopfronts dwarfed by a modern building in Kuala Lumpur (photo: The Other)

 

Malaysia is truly the quintessential Asian melting pot, with the main ethnic groups – Malay, Indian and Chinese – each making a distinct and vibrant contribution to the country’s social, cultural and economic fabric. While I knew a bit about Malaysia’s ethnic makeup before visiting the country, to see it in action is another thing and as a traveller, I can’t pretend that my experiences did much more than skim the surface. At a glance there appears ‘One Malaysia’ – from hotels staffed by people from all races to groups of friends with different backgrounds – the dominant racial groups intermingle widely and have a presence across most parts of the economy.  Or do they?   Pre-dating the long-standing and controverial President Mahathir, government policy preferenced the rights of ethnic Malays – aka the Bumiputra - as a means of redistributing wealth. This worked to disempower dominant ethnic groups, notably the Chinese and Indians, by restricting their ownership of business and ability to work in the public sector.  While it appears that the affirmative action policy is no longer officially in force today, its ramifications are profound, and these groups are still marginalised and experience discrimination in many facets of life.  For example, it is rare for non-Malays to get jobs in government and the top jobs in corporates are typically given to Malays. Take Imbi Market, a morning hawkers market in Kuala Lumpur, packed with stalls selling very yummy traditional food treats.  Apparently the market is going to be shut down, being sacrificed for a big commercial development, and the mostly Chinese vendors are powerless to protest. Perhaps race is irrelevant in this case, but that’s not the sentiment of the local Chinese.

Young girl in the central market, Kuala Terengganu (photo: The Other)

Young girl in the central market, Kuala Terengganu (photo: The Other)

Pernakan Mansion, Penang (photo: The Other)

Pernakan Mansion, Penang (photo: The Other)

 

Not surprisingly, social cohesion is not all that it could be and in a tokenistic effort to unite the different ethnic groups, and present a front of equality, there are initiatives such as ‘Harmony Day’, which we were in Penang for and amounted to little more than a public holiday enjoyed by many.

The average traveller will barely notice any of this though, and to that end, Malaysia does a pretty good job of welcoming tourists and giving visitors a fantastic smorgasbord of culture, including a lifetime’s worth of food to sample. Penang is the gastronomical hub, and locals take great pride in helping you learn about their famous dishes and eating venues.   With its recently granted World Heritage status, the island’s Georgetown is fast becoming a muse for creative entrepreneurs and quaint hole-in-the-wall places like Amelie give the island yet another feather in its cap.

Seafood vendor, Gurney Drive, Penang

Seafood vendor, Gurney Drive, Penang

 

But for all of Penang’s laurels, the best food I had on our holiday was in none other than Kuala Lumpur, at a modern Malay restaurant called Bijan.  Here I enjoyed one of the greatest culinary experiences of my life to which words do no justice: prawns stir-fried in a creamy durian sauce (I lost count of how many prawns I got), accompanied by an outrageously delicious (even carnivorous South African husband agreed) wild fern salad.   If you ever get the chance to visit KL, make a booking and make sure you go here.  If only a picture could tell a thousand flavours… social harmony or no social harmony, this is all KL needs to lure me back.

Prawns in a durian curry sauce at Bijan

Prawns in a durian curry sauce at Bijan

 

 

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Exploitation or empowerment? The maid debate

For many years I have deliberated the ethics of hiring someone to clean my house.   With a mother who takes immense pride in her home yet believes it’s a plain waste of money to outsource cleaning, I grew up believing that only the very richest people had cleaners.

Thembi Ndlovu, South Africa (www.ianvancoller.com)

 

My early travels to Asia and Africa added some depth to my understanding of ‘maid culture’, as I quickly observed the ubiquity of domestic help across the middle and upper classes.  My kneejerk reaction to seeing so many maids in homes was abhorrence.  It seemed to sum up all that was wrong with the world, with privileged people continuing to amass wealth and to prosper off the back of the disadvantaged poor, forced to take any work available, accept low pay, enjoy next-to-no rights and commonly be separated from their own children in the process.  The recent American film Mammoth captured this irony of globalisation, telling the story of a family in New York employing a Filipino lady as a live-in nanny.  While the young professional couple effectively outsource the bringing up of their child in order to work more to fund their affluence, their nanny is separated from her own two children in her quest to earn a decent income and provide for their future.

Chezile Twala, South Africa (www.ianvancoller.com)

 

Perhaps what shocked me the most was seeing how good people doing amazing things abroad also play into this dual economy, with foreign aid and development workers commonly hiring domestic workers and/or nannies, quite simply because of the cheap-as-chips labour.  Surely, I pondered at the time, if all these ‘humanitarians’ could just pay their staff more money and guarantee them similar rights to what they themselves enjoyed (such as sick leave and superannuation), these communities would ultimately be a whole lot better off and perhaps may not need so much foreign assistance in the first place.

Irene Maleke, South Africa (www.ianvancoller.com)

 

But age is mellowing me out a bit and I now see a lot more ‘grey area’ than I did before.  I’ve come across many examples of friends and family abroad who employ a maid and in the process, invest significantly in helping that person and their family, whether it be through sponsoring the worker’s children’s education or paying for life-saving medication and treatments.  I’ve also accepted that for many domestic workers, this work represents their only real employment option and particularly for ‘illegal’ migrants in developing countries, is an opportunity for them to work and live in a relatively safe environment.

Zanele Ndlovu, South Africa (www.ianvancoller.com)

 

In Australia, while cleaning and domestic help is still one of the lowest paid forms of work, it’s possible to make a half-decent living.  After having a baby and returning to part time work, I finally bit the bullet this year and hired cleaners to come and do the kind of things that we just weren’t doing often enough like mopping floors and vacuuming.  A young migrant couple clean our place fortnightly; they work really hard, have recently themselves bought a house and are making a good life for themselves.  As they are employed through an agency, we pay a little bit more, but at least know that they have some employment rights and benefits. There are also some great innovative social enterprises in Victoria which provide migrants with employment opportunities as cleaners including AMES and the ASRC.

Agnes Kelekegile, South Africa (www.ianvancoller.com)

 

About the photos:

Interior Relations is a series focused specifically on the lives of domestic workers—nannies and maids — who in the words of photographer Ian Van Coller – seemingly embody the daily reproduction of apartheid-era relations in South Africa today. “This portrait series explores the deep fault lines between the country’s public democratic ideals and the ongoing racial and economic inequality more than a decade after apartheid’s end. The institution of domestic service, so engrained in South African culture, is a complex arena of interaction that brings individuals together who would otherwise stand on opposite sides of an enormous gulf in ethnicity, culture, education and poverty into an intensely intimate, personal and sometimes awkward interdependence. These “relationships” hold unique potential for transformation in a society that was previously so conflicted, in part because black and white South Africans have led such separate lives.”

“On a trip home to visit my family in South Africa in 2005, I was struck by the general persistence of domestic workers being employed in the homes of most white South Africans. There are more than 1.5 million black South Africans who still serve as maids, nannies and gardeners in wealthy and middle-class white households. New laws regulating the domestic service industry ensure that employees receive decent wages and are not exploited by having to work unreasonably long hours. These and other government protections have changed the working conditions, as well as the attitudes toward domestic service as fewer South Africans can afford live-in help, and more women prefer to maintain their own residence, apart from the family or families that they work for. Yet in this immediate post-Apartheid era, there remain few employment opportunities for many black South African women aside from domestic work. And with a fifty-percent unemployment rate, domestic service fills a critical need for women seeking to support their families.”

www.ianvancoller.com

 

 

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Goo la la: bilingual babies

Ever since I can remember, I’ve been in awe of people who speak two or more languages fluently.  Whether they have learnt a second language at school from an early age or spoken a different language at home, I have longed for the capacity to seamlessly straddle two cultures and lamented my Anglo-Saxon roots for its bland monolingualism.  So much so, I vowed that if I ever had children, I would give them the opportunity to ‘acquire’ a second language from an early age.

Why? Because young children absorb information at at a phenomenal rate – in fact, some language skills peak in babies and 0-3 years is the most critical period for gaining competency in a language. But this is the just the tip of the iceberg.  Studies show there are various cognitive benefits to learning two languages from an early age; a no-brainer really, given that the child will be forced to think in more complicated ways as they deal with different language structures and concepts.  But really, above all else, why wouldn’t I do my best to give my child a second language which they can either build upon later in life, or use as a foundation for learning another foreign language, or, worst case scenario, ditch with nothing lost but perhaps something small gained (such as the knowledge that there’s a bigger world out there beyond our immediate surroundings).

Photo: New York Times

 

Which brings me to the present day as I endeavour to teach my 16 month old daughter French.  I’m undoubtedly facing an uphill slog given French is not the native tongue of myself or my husband, however I’ve studied it for a number of years and reckon that I can only try my best.  To date, we’ve got flash cards, music, a DVD series, and pop-up books… all which means very little if I can’t string a proper sentence together, hence I’m refreshing my verb conjugation skills and looking to enrol in a refresher conversation course.  But while it’s only early days, I’m sensing that part of the battle will be tackling (or ignoring) occasional perceptions of this as a self-indulgent bourgeois crusade.  Too bad.

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Apart from learning from and watching my bilingual friends who are raising bilingual children, there are tons of resources out there to inspire and guide this journey such as this amazing blog and other more traditional resources such as the ever-faithful Foreign Language Bookshop.  And should we still be living in Australia when our daughter hits primary school age, it’s pretty exciting to see bilingual state schools beginning to pop up around the place.

The good news is that after only a month of so of speaking French to her, our little girl is responding to all kinds of questions, words and statements.  Of course, we think she’s utterly brilliant and gifted, but whether she is or not, it’s remarkable to observe the learning process and the capacity for toddlers to absorb multiple translations of words.

I’d like just a little bit of that baby brilliance myself, s’il vous plaît.

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Note to Gillard: go back to where you came from

For those engaged in Australia’s asylum seeker debate, SBS Television’s 3 part reality series ‘Go back to where you came from‘ has been one of the year’s most anticipated TV events and I for one certainly wasn’t going to miss it.  Even before the series went to air, a good 40,000 people on Facebook indicated they planned to watch it, and by all indications, the first part’s ratings have been very rosy with an estimated half a million viewers tuning in last night.

The series focuses on 6 ‘ordinary Australians‘, whose initial sentiments towards asylum seekers range from empathy to utter contempt, with a good sprinkling of apathy all round.  Each of these people is taken on a journey from their comfortable home environments to follow a typical journey of a refugee, in reverse, to get a taste of the danger, fear, grief and uncertainty which the average asylum seeker ensures as they travel the long hard road to freedom.

6 participants of 'Go Back to Where You Came From'

 

The show is confronting. Why? Because as any good reality tv show should be, it’s very real.  The ignorance is real, the racism is real, and even the occasional bouts of compassion are real.  But what’s most confronting is the overwhelming familiarity of these attitudes and the realisation that this is Australia in 2011, not America in the first half of the last century or apartheid South Africa in its latter half.  How did we come to this?  While my inclination is to lay blame on Pauline Hanson and our former PM John Howard (“We will decide who comes to this country”), our ‘island mentality‘ extends back far further and has deep and complex roots.

Whatever their personal sentiments (or migrant background for that matter) Australia’s current leadership looks certain to continue to exploit this issue for political gain and for the most part, take Australian media along for the ride.  If we want to turn the tide, it’s up to us ‘ordinary’ folk to make an effort.  Not just by eating at our local Sri Lankan restaurant and supporting Amnesty International appeals, but to get the facts out there and have the hard conversations with people we know (and I’m sure everyone knows someone like Raquel) who just don’t get it and are (self-confessed or not) racist.

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Encouragingly, it seems that for a number of the show’s participants, reality does indeed hit home and their views on refugees and asylum seekers transform over the course of the gruelling 25-day journey.  Such is the power of forging relationships and putting a face to those who are demonised day after day.

Let’s hope that the interest and discussion extends far beyond the SBS demographic and into the political battleground of western Sydney for it to begin to impact national policy.  Already thousands of comments have been posted on news sites, international media are weighing into the debate and last night the series was Twitter’s number one trending topic worldwide (#GoBackSBS).

Yes, indeed, the world is watching.  But do we care Australia?

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